It's September. We are in the area south of Verona, a flat region rich in waterways. In the countryside, as it moves towards the resting phase, you can see wheat-like ears turning a golden yellow. These are the rice fields. A rice field is a dynamic spectacle that transforms with the seasons, reflecting the profound connection between nature, water, and human labor. In spring, the rice field appears as a vast, flat expanse of water, resembling a mirror. The water covers the ground, reflecting the sky, clouds, trees, and sometimes even the flight of herons.
The fields, neatly arranged and geometric, are divided by small grassy banks and crisscrossed by irrigation canals that supply the water needed for cultivation. In the silence of the countryside, you can hear the sounds of flowing water, the singing of water birds, and the rustling of the wind as it caresses the surface. As the season progresses, the rice seedlings begin to emerge from the water: first, they are green and thin, then they grow tall and dense, eventually transforming the field into a swaying green sea under the summer sun. In summer, the rice field partially dries out: the green becomes more intense, and the sunlight makes the leaves shine.
The landscape changes again in autumn, as the ears of corn ripen and turn golden, ready for harvest. In the past, the rice field was filled with "mondine," women bent under the sun, weeding the seedlings by hand. The term "mondina" comes from "mondare," meaning to weed: these women used to weed the rice, manually removing the weeds that grew alongside the rice plants. Today, rice fields are cultivated using mechanical means, yet they remain a symbol of agricultural tradition and daily toil.
Alongside the fields, you can see rice mills, farms, and sometimes beautiful Venetian villas. The constant presence of water also creates an ideal environment for amphibians, insects, and birds: rice fields are true living ecosystems. The life of a Veronese rice field is tied to the risorgive, a natural water source that springs up from the ground in the border areas between the upper and lower parts of the plain. This is the water that floods the fields and nourishes the rice plants. The history of rice is ancient and fascinating, intertwined with millennia-old civilizations and the spread of cultivation along rivers and fertile plains.
Rice is one of the oldest crops known to humanity, cultivated for over 10,000 years. Its origins are in Asia, likely in the region encompassing northeastern India, southern China, and present-day Myanmar. Rice was introduced to Italy in the 14th century, likely through Sicily and then spreading to the Po Valley. Rice cultivation in southern Verona has a long agricultural tradition dating back to at least the 1500s and is now one of the symbols of the area. In particular, the Veronese low land area around Isola della Scala is the heart of the production of Vialone Nano Veronese IGP rice, a recognized European excellence.
This flat area, rich in waterways, offers ideal conditions for rice cultivation. Rice requires a lot of water, and southern Verona is abundant in springs and natural water sources. Sowing takes place in spring (April-May), with the fields being progressively flooded. The rice is typically grown in flooded paddies, but there are also dry paddy techniques used to reduce water consumption. Harvesting occurs between September and October. The production has a low environmental impact, with a focus on crop rotation and the sustainable use of resources. The harvested rice is still covered with an inedible husk that needs to be removed.
This requires the use of a mechanism known as a rice mill. It is a traditional system used for processing raw rice, transforming freshly harvested rice (known as paddy rice) into the product we find on the market. Rice cultivation has influenced the cuisine, traditions, and even the economy of the area. The two types of rice grown in the Verona area are Vialone Nano and Carnaroli. The iconic variety of the area is the Vialone Nano Veronese IGP, which was awarded Protected Geographical Indication status in 1996. It is cultivated according to precise guidelines that regulate the production area, cultivation techniques, and harvesting and processing methods.
Carnaroli is one of the most prized and widely used rice varieties in Italy, especially for making risotto. It is often referred to as "the king of rice" due to its superior culinary qualities. All of this is an invitation to explore rice. It's not just a food. It's about history, work, land, and traditions.
